The Early 1900s

The Edwardian era of 1900-1919 was a time of great social change with Victorian values being replaced by the suffragettes cry for equal rights for women and the advent of haute couture fashion in Europe. Skirt shapes became straighter and shorter, allowing for more of the foot to be shown and pushing shoes into the forefront of fashion. In addition, women were outside of the house more often, visiting the newly invented department stores or attending a matinee.

Edwardian street shoes were much sturdier than their slipper-like forefathers, which suggested women were to stay inside the house. Available at first in black or tan with narrow toes and arched insteps, these shoes became known as the Louis heel. The Louis heel, originally invented in the 1660s, showcased an hourglass heel that was both easy to walk in and elegant. This heel along with steel or marcasite buckles added an air of expense and luxury to practical shoes. Its comfort, practicality, and glamour have made the Louis heel into one of the most popular shoe silhouettes ever designed. This “new woman” of the early turn of the century also began to sport high-heeled laced or button ankle boots with a flexible sole that were perfect for strolling through the streets.

During this time, women also became more involved in outdoor sports, specifically tennis and bicycling. This led to the invention of what began as “bicycling boots,” which were laced to the knee with a low heel and ridged sole, in order to keep feet from slipping off the pedals. These boots were eventually made into what came to be known as sneakers and sold by Keds.

Low heels and pumps also became popular during this era due to their practicality and comfort. Another relaxed shoe of the time was the boudoir slipper, which were usually backless with a slight Louis heel or completely flat. The vamp of the slipper was usually embroidered or decorated in velvet or satin, adding an air of fancy to their relaxed nature. These slippers were tied at the ankle or across the instep which affixed the foot to the shoe. These slippers became so popular that today over one hundred million pairs have been sold.